The Louvre and Musee L'Orangerie

Monday, July 21.

For museum junkies, the Louvre is where the action is; the world's largest museum. You just can't see it all in one trip.

The building is huge. At one time, it was the palace of the kings (built by Louis IV). The British built some spectacular houses but they had nothing on the French nobility when it came to opulent excess; however the Revolution stopped that and started a new chain of excess. The revolutionaries took it over and made it into a public museum, a rarity at that time. Napoleon looted Europe and the Middle East to supplement the king's treasures. The addition of American architect I.M. Pei's glass pyramid was controversial (Parisians are said to hate it), but it washes the entry area with light and Claire thinks it's pretty cool.





















We arrived early to avoid the lines (yeah, right). The Museum Pass helped out so at least we got in faster then the "great unwashed"; security is very tight, including soldiers in camo with automatic weapons. Once inside, we (and 100,000 of our best friends) viewed as many works of art and bits of history as we could manage, given the crowds.

We did the ancient Greek statuary, then Roman. Venus de Milo is a big hit, as is Winged Victory. We also saw the Renaisance sculpture (Michaelangelo, etc.) and paintings. Mona Lisa is in a big room with many other period paintings. Nobody looked at the other paintings so several thousand people jockied for position. Bill, being taller than average, got a good look (albeit from a distance); Claire needed a pogo stick. We left after about three hours, possibly to return on a less crowded day or in the evening, which we understand affords a more peaceful experience.









In the basement of the adjoining building, we hit a food court and got burgers. We recommend you do not buy American food in Paris.

We strolled through the Jarden Des Tuleries, a VERY large garden or park. At one time there was a palace here, connected to the Louvre but it burned down and the park was created, with fountains, trees, statuary, benches and cafes.

At the far side of the park, we entered Musee De L'Orangerie. Here we found many examples of late 19th and early 20th century paintings, including Monet's

Water Lilies and works by Utrillo, Cezanne, Renoir, Matisse and Picasso, plus others. What a contrast to the Louvre, in terms of being much quieter and more relaxed. Seeing the Water Lilies installed as intended is a lovely experience and provided a relaxing contrast to the frantic crush of every Japanese tourist in Paris snapping themselves and each other in front of all the "famous" pieces in the Louvre.

We then walked back to our apartment, going through the Jarden Des Tuleries again, stopping for a Tarte Tatin (upside down apple tart) and coffee/tea, and strolling through a carnival that reminded us of the Atlantic City Boardwalk (no ocean but the Seine is nearby). Another day with miles of walking and sore feet, but we saw lots of good stuff.